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Saturday, 13 August 2016

Stunning Stretch Satin Success Stories!





Hi Lingerie Sewers

I have sourced some stunning pieces of stretch satin, as pictured above - they don't have a huge amount of stretch, but a little in one direction, not in the other.  There is not enough stretch for example, to use for a Watson bra or any other stretch bra pattern. Perfect though for patterns like the Marlborough and the Shelley.  I wasn't sure how they would both sew up so, being short of time, I asked a couple of online sewing friends if they would do the research on the above, both having made several bras each of their go-to patterns.

First up is my Shelley bra sewist who is a 14F in RTW but uses the 38G sizing in the Shelley pattern and gets a great fit. She would normally use duoplex fabric for her Shelleys which has a bit of mechanical give but no stretch as such and does not need lined although you may wish to if you like to hide your seaming on the inside. The Shelley has optional underwires although you still need to use underwire casing for shaping and this bra is made without underwires. She also does not like lace on her bras, so uses fabric on the upper cup pieces instead with extra picot elastic along the neckline edge. This just shows that you can get an amazing looking bra, even without the addition of lace.  You get to choose, since you are the designer/maker of your own awesome lingerie! 

In her own words -
I found the fabric good to sew with but did notice that it frayed more than the duoplex so it will be interesting to see what happens after a few washes. I do feel that the duoplex is the better fabric. 
The third photo shows that I have lined the bra although I do not have all my seams enclosed but they are all topstitched on the cup pieces.
The bra looks lovely and the colours are great together. I do find the bra very comfortable with no stretching or going out of shape and I just love the floral fabric!







The final finished bra - it looks just gorgeous!


Next up is my Marlborough bra sewist, who is experienced at this particular pattern, having made a number of gorgeous ensembles with matching undies. Since this is an underwire pattern, I also sent along with the fabric kit, a set of underwires that I now stock from Emerald Erin that are especially manufactured by Erin for the Orange Lingerie patterns - the Marlborough and the Boylston.

In her own words - 
To cut out the pieces I traced a copy of each piece so that I had a left and right side of the same pattern piece. I did this onto tracing paper so I could see the fabric through the pieces. Then I could place the pieces according to the pattern on the fabric. My aim wasn't to pattern mirror each piece but rather make sure each piece had the same colour story. Just so I didn't end up with one deep purple boob and one peach one. Haha! 


The main fabric did fray slightly but no more than the ivory fabric I used to make my ivory and green bra. I ran my fingernail the same amount of times over each piece as a comparison and they both frayed the same. See photo.  


My ivory one has been worn A LOT, I started out hand washing it and now it gets thrown in the machine on delicate and in a wash bag. The ivory fabric has shown no signs of wearing at the seams so I'd be pretty confident that the floral fabric will hold up too despite the fraying.  
I lined all the cup and frame pieces and created enclosed seams where possible - I guess this will reinforce the sturdiness of the fabric as well. I guess for the exposed seams I could have done a narrow overlock..... 
The fabric and lace sewed up really nicely.  


I think this is the best fit I've gotten from the Marlborough pattern so far so the fabric is really well suited to the pattern.  
The underwires fit really well too although they don't seem too much different to the regular size set that I normally use.  
(NB: - the underwires are slightly more splayed and a bit lower in the centre front than the regular size underwires I stock) 



Another stunning stretch statin bra!




Thank you ladies for such a superb effort! - they both showcase the fabric so well, and in their own ways, and they are both so gorgeous, I love them!

Kitsets to make these bras (or any other bra pattern you think is suitable) are available for pre-order now, as I am just waiting on lace to arrive to complete kits. Just email me, or message me on Instagram if you are a follower.  There is only a small amount of the pink colourway, so first in, first served. There is plenty of fabric available in the other colourway, which has so many different colours in it you are not limited as far as findings go at all! Purples, blues, greens, corals, as well as the peach lace shown (which will also still be available as I have ordered more of this popular lace even though it is not showing on the shop page at the moment)

There will also be a small amount available of some plain/patterned stretch satins and plain non-stretch satins in colours as pictured below:


Stretch Satins
Gold, Gunmetal Blue, Silver/Bronze, Pink/Red
Non-Stretch Satins
Ivory, Red, Gunmetal Blue, Pale Sage Green

Pricing for these kits will be: 
- Fabric/findings only kit $30
- Fabric/Lace kit - $35.50
- Add underwires +$4.50

Also some pieces of plain viscose lycra - which are quite stretchy and slinky, probably best suited to patterns where you want to cover foam cups, pictured below:


Viscose Lycra - in Purple, Fuchsia, Burnt Orange


I just love how everyone interprets patterns differently, they are all so inspirational and we can learn so much from how other sewists get to the final result - case in point is Kat from A Journey Through The Void - in this post here for her FIRST bra!

and her second here! Go and read her posts, they are very informative, I love her writing style and I can't wait to see what her next project is going to be!


Till next time,
Lynda 

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