Thursday, 26 November 2015

Shelley Bra

This is the Shelley bra from Bra Makers Supply, which I had previously made for my mum.  Used fuchsia duoplex fabric for the cradle, power bar and straps with powernet band and lycra/lace for the cups. A bra without underwires was requested, and as the Shelley is optional for underwires, although you still attach bra channelling for support under the cups, I went with this pattern. Similar to an RTW bra that is supportive without underwires.

I think though that the lycra I used was not strong enough for any support, hence I've had to go and reline the cups with powernet and hope that this will do the job - it feels a lot firmer in the cups now so fingers crossed.  Have shortened the straps by 3cm also, as they seemed to be far too long and the elastic had nowhere to go, having shortened them as much as possible already.

This pattern makes for a very pretty bra, with the four piece cups allowing for use of different fabrics - my mum was very pleased with it. Next one will be made entirely with duoplex and lace to see how different the final product will be support-wise.

Friday, 20 November 2015

Another Boylston - Prettier than the first

After wearing my Boylston for a while (which I thought was pretty perfect at the time - and still love, don't get me wrong!) I felt it wasn't quite the best fit after all. I've had this gorgeous swimwear lycra sitting in my stash and not been brave enough to use it, until now.

I had my sister re-measure me, as trying to do it by yourself is a bit tricky - and came up with a different size (but the same as some RTW bras I have). Previous version I made a 34B - so down a band size from the previous version, to 32 and sizing was A cup by measurements and as I was wanting to use cut-and-sew foam, went up a cup size to 32B size. THIS is the perfect bra!!

I went slower with this bra, but still made some silly mistakes - trying to sew black lining at night is not the best idea and I unpicked one piece more than once, sewing it on back to front. For this version, I removed the seam allowances from the foam just on the inside cup pieces only (previously I removed seam allowances all around the cup pieces) but my thinking was that with sizing being smaller - and hopefully the correct size - I would need seam allowances still on the outside to make sure it fitted properly - and it did!

I had 2 different types of underwires in my cupboard - one from Spotlight which when I measured against Bra Makers Supply wire charts was a 32 regular sizing and the other (which I also used in the previous version) came from MakeBra and against the chart were 32 long. I inserted one of each to see and the regular ones were way too short and meant the cup wasn't fitting as snugly as the long wires which went all the way around. I often wonder which type of wires to use as the patterns I've used so far say "use the underwires that correspond to your size".  How do you know whether to use regular, short, or long wires unless you have some of each to try? Does anyone else out there have this same question in trying to determine wire type to use?

Here is a picture of the back - I did have to cut a small piece out of the back band section to match the hook & eye I had (2 hook) and probably a 3 hook is better for this bra pattern.

There is a bit of a mixture of colours - blue elastics and teal green strapping plus red powernet and hook & eye with silver rings/sliders. Am wondering if it is over-the-top a bit with colours and I should have stuck with my usual "black goes with anything routine" - what do you think?

Just need matching briefs now!
Saturday, 22 August 2015

New Fabrics


New fabrics have arrived and I have added a shop page which I will be adding to as new items arrive.

I have four colours of duoplex fabric from Bra Makers Supply - White/Black/Red/Fuchsia. This is a 100% polyester non-stretch stable knit.  It is strong and supportive (no need to line bra cups if using duoplex), and it is reversible (shiny one side, matte other side).

Also in are some gorgeous nylon lycra fabrics - they are all two-way stretch (both directions), Italian made, ideal for lingerie and swimwear.  I have made quite a few bras out of fabric that is also suitable for swimwear, the colours and prints are lovely and you can pick out a contrasting colour in the fabric for the elastics and strapping. They are 150cm wide - only half a metre of each print available - although you only need a small amount for a bra. For smaller sizes I have found I can get a bra and briefs from a quarter metre of fabric easily.

Purples, Reds or Green elastics would look great with this floral

My choice of elastics here would be teal green or red

Blue, Red, Greens - lots of choices for elastics here

Navy or white elastics would be lovely with this

Elastics I have in stock are white (suitable to dye) and black in 12mm wide strapping with plush back, under bust elastic 12mm with plush back, and 9mm scalloped plush elastic for underarm bra edges and brief edges. I do have some 19mm of plush back strapping and plush back under bust in both black and white left.

Hook and eye tape in black and white (suitable to dye) - cut to whichever length or amount of hook/eyes you require.

Silver metal ring/slider sets in 12mm - nylon coated metal ring/slider sets in white and black 12mm, a small amount of gold metal sets in 12mm also.  Nylon coated metal in white and black sets, 19mm width, I also have a small amount of.

Small black ribbon bows for decoration of bra fronts.

Black and white powernet - suitable for bra bands - looks meshy, but is really firm - stretches in the lengthwise direction. 80% nylon/20% spandex blend.

Black and white sheer cup lining - 100% nylon fabric - other than lining cups, use it under delicate fabrics or laces. Almost invisible under fabrics, yet has great support. Also useful for power bars.

Satin finish channelling in black and white (suitable to dye) for underwires.

There we have it - everything available to make yourself some new lingerie except underwires themselves. Hard to know what sizes of these to stock.

My intention is to order in some laces and cut-and-sew foam, so stay tuned!

If there is anything else you would require that I don't have, please just enquire and I will be happy to help.

Saturday, 11 July 2015

Boylston Bra

Boylston Bra

Latest creation - pattern from Orange Lingerie - available here.

I can really recommend this pattern - it is a great fit, very comfortable. Used the measuring method as per the instructions and it came out perfectly. Sewed it up with cut & sew foam, using khaki milliskin as the cover and lined with non-stretch lining. Black powernet and elastics, with gold rings/sliders. This is now my new favourite of underwired patterns!
Thursday, 9 July 2015

Watson Kits

Hi there

Have added some kits for the Watson Bra & Bikini pattern from Cloth Habit.
There is 1 of each kit photographed available.

These include as follows:

* Nylon lycra stretch fabric for body of bra and bikini brief - 0.5m
* Lining (little or non stretch nylon) for cradle - 0.125m
* Powernet for back band - 0.125m
* 12mm strap elastic - 1.2m
* 12mm plush underbust elastic - 1.5m
* 6mm plush picot elastic for underarm, neckline, briefs - 3.5m
* 12mm rings and sliders - 1 set
* Hook & Eye set - choose from 2 row or 3 row

All of these kits are $25 each + $5 freight (RD an extra $3 freight)

Please email for enquiries or to purchase.

Khaki with Black Powernet & Findings
and Burgundy Elastics (shown brighter here than actual
and not all same shade burgundy)
Navy with Black Powernet & Navy Elastics (various shades)
plus Navy Hook & Eye and Silver Rings & Sliders
Navy with White Powernet (lighter weight) and
White Findings & Elastics
Khaki with Black Powernet, Findings & Elastics
Kingfisher Blue with Black Powernet, Findings & Elastics
Thursday, 2 July 2015

Lingerie Findings for Kiwi's

Greetings from the deep South

As the title suggests, if you have an interest (or obsession like myself) in sewing lingerie, namely bras, you are probably experiencing frustration at trying to find the hardware, elastics and other bits and pieces to make the amazing bra patterns there are floating around the internet these days.

My favourite of the moment being The Watson Bra & Bikini by Cloth Habit. Also the Marlborough Bra which I have cut out but not yet sewn up.  Another great one I've had success with is the Shelley from Bra Makers Supply.

Anyway, I have started this blog up with the intention of being able to offer to Kiwi sewers the findings, some fabrics plus the elusive powernet and Watson kits initially to gauge whether there is any kind of a market for this.

Please contact me via commenting if you are interested. I will be adding photos of the products as I go.

Happy Sewing